As a newcomer to Missouri and its wines I was surprised and delighted to find out about the Norton, the native grape that’s distinct from European varieties, charmed when I read that it’s regarded as the oldest cultivated grape in the US, impressed by its gold medal at an 1873 international competition in Vienna and blown away by a wine critic of the time who billed it as a future rival of the great wines of Europe. I was really pleased, nearly licking my lips, when I could easily find bottles of Norton made by local wine makers in Kansas City liquor stores near me.
Before I had even tasted any Norton I was so excited by the prospect that I found myself trying to explain why I’d never heard of it before or seen it for sale outside the US Midwest. I wondered if the name of the grape was the problem. Does the word ‘Norton’ sound too clunky and boring alongside more glamorous grape titles like Cabernet-Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Zinfandel? Was that why, despite the grape’s hallowed history and pedigree, it had never quite made it into the wine grape hall of fame? Could the name be changed to a Latin sounding Nortonis perhaps? Would that help? These thoughts only endeared the grape to me more – Norton was clearly an overlooked outsider, an anti-hero ignored by the wine industry establishment. I was now really looking forward to not only drinking Norton but also sharing it and spreading the word.
Buying my first Norton bottle was difficult, almost emotional. I grabbed a few bottles from the shelf and read their labels. They promised a dry red with inky purple color, rich body and a full flavor. How could I lose? After driving carefully home I gleefully grabbed the bottle, extracted its cork and poured. The wine looked beautiful in the glass – deep, dark red color and a nice thick, almost viscous looking body. But then I tasted it. The overwhelming flavor was tart, almost sour, something like licking the inside of a tin of artichokes. The problem with this grape was explained at last – Norton wine is hard to drink (for me at least). I’ve tried about half a dozen different Norton wines now – one was even sweet tasting – and each time I really struggled to finish a glass. On several occasions the first sip seemed okay but pretty soon the tart, sour flavors became overwhelming.
I understand now that when local wine makers and Norton fans say this wine is best drunk with strong meats and cheeses, this recommendation isn’t wine and food pairing in the conventional sense – at least for the Nortons I’ve tried. The pairing here seems to be more about masking Norton’s undesirable flavors and making them palatable. It reminds me of encouraging a child to eat the greens on their plate by covering them with gravy.
I know I’m not alone in this experience. People I drink wine with haven’t given me favorable feedback on the Norton. Any locals with a taste for traditional Midwest style wines seem to go for the sweeter whites rather than the tart Norton. The only people I’ve come across who praise it have been local wine makers. But I know there must be other fans out there.
And a couple of times finding a bottle of Norton I liked seemed to be within reach. I’d take a sip, then another, almost like it and then suddenly find I couldn’t go on. I need to try more Nortons and also understand what flavor the ‘ideal’ Norton is supposed to have. Does anyone have any ideas or recommendations? Can a conventional wine drinker be expected to like Norton? This isn’t a heroic quest but Sir Galahad, the knight from King Arthur’s legendary Round Table did face similar issues on his hunt for the Holy Grail. On his exhausting quest that took many years the Grail would sometimes appear before him and then disappear just before he grasped it. I’ve felt the same after sipping a glass of Norton that showed promise but then disappointed – close, yet so far. This week I’m driving around Missouri wine country hoping that a likeable Norton really does materialize. “Ride on! the prize is near.” (Alfred Tennyson, Sir Galahad)
Indeed! “Ride on!” May your quest bring us all a bit of enlightenment with regards to the puzzling Norton grape… I so dearly want to like the grapes of my native soil and cut our dependence on foreign grapes. Happy Travels, sire!
As someone from Michigan originally, and having known Dave Johnson since his days with Dr. Stan Howell at MSU, I would say that Stone Hill is my favorite Missouri Norton. Dave was also helpful to me when I first started making Norton myself. Oh, he makes really good wines, too.
Thanks Alan! I will visit Stone Hill. best Danny
There are 257 Norton wineries today in 24 states (Alabama – 4, Arkansas – 6, Florida – 1, Georgia – 8, Illinois – 27, Indiana – 3, Iowa – 12, Kansas – 9, Kentucky – 14, Louisiana – 2, Maryland – 1, Michigan – 1, Missouri – 86, Nebraska – 4, New Jersey – 3, New York – 1, North Carolina – 5, Ohio – 3, Oklahoma – 6, Pennsylvania – 4, Tennessee – 11, Texas – 9, Virginia – 36, West Virginia – 1). Finding that exceptional Norton wine is like kissing a lot of toads to find that prince(ss). After tasting now 113 different Norton wines from seventeen states, we have found a few exciting Nortons and a handful of other really good wine examples which vary annually due to vintage variation. Many people want instant wine gratification upon purchase, but here is where that does not work since most Norton wines need to be put away for four-to-seven years or longer, ~ something most people are not willing or able to do. To date, we’ve found only a few “drink now” Norton wines; as, Westphalia in Missouri, Texas’ Stone House ‘Claros’ and Castle Gruen in Virginia. And wineries that hold back their wines four or five years also consequently charge you more for these wines (Stone Hill Cross J Norton as example). But not to discourage you in Norton wine purchases, you will enjoy even younger Norton wines if you let your bottles rest for a few weeks after purchase (travel bottle shock) and make sure to let your Norton wine breathe for no less than 40 minutes before serving. Your first sip will smack you of malic acids (+ tannins), but quickly settle down with the second sip, etc. Depending on your travel location, do try the best Norton wines within the following states: White Oaks (AL); Mount Bethel (AR), Three Sister (GA); Century Farms (TN); Lover’s Leap and Elk Creek (KY), Stone House Vineyards (TX), Castle Gruen, Cooper, DuCard, Chrysalis (VA); Stone Mountain Cellars (PA), Heinrichshaus, Stone Hill’s Cross J, Montelle, Robller, Peaceful Bend and Westphalia (MO). Please do not compare Norton wine to California and European vinifera, since it’s truly an American wine which reflects our American culture. Doug Frost, a Kansas City wine writer and master sommelier expressed Norton wines best as “powerful, muscular, crazy intense in malic acid and capable of staining teeth or even wineglasses. [The wine is] probably something most drinkers have to learn to love, with its rough and rustic personality often evident.” *Another concern for many is the cost of Norton wines. Realize that grape production can be less than one third per acre with Norton grapes as compared to other grape yields because of its small size and extremely seedy fruit. There are other factors involved also, but generally expect to pay $18-$25 per bottle. Most less expensive Norton wines reflect anticipated quality, but here we also have some fine exceptions; as, Horton ($12-$15 VA), St. James ($8-15 MO), Illinois Cellars ($7 IL), Elk Creek Vineyards ($13 KY), Century Farms ($12 TN) and White Oaks ($13 AL). Try to find Norton vineyards with older vines which combine well with more experienced Norton vintners. But here again, we have been pleasantly surprised with new Norton upstarts who make amazing blends to camouflage their young green Nortons. Do yourself a favor by enjoying Todd Kliman’s novel-like-Norton biography, The Wild Vine, with a Norton wine in hand.
Thanks for such a comprehensive response TNWT. You’ve certainly done a lot of Norton tasting and what you say reflects what I’ve just learnt on a quick Missouri wine tour trying out some Nortons. Three wise men from Stone Hill Winery also recommended ‘The Wild Vine’. I will seek it out. How do you keep track of the number of Nortons you’ve tried – you give a very specific 113 number. Do you have 113 empty Norton bottles somewhere? All the best. Danny
With a detailed Norton winery data base, I simple check off the vineyards visited. Another way for you to ‘catch’ my Norton visits: http://www.catchwine.com/users/rhodies/journal/ (Norton Wine Reviews). Norton travels of years past can be found at Wine Compass and Wannabe Wino. Hopefully in February I’ll be able to explore Texas’ nine Norton wineries.
There is also a CALIFORNIA Norton (yup, California) It was grown in Lodi and is being made by Shauna Rosenblum at Rock Wall Wine Co in Alameda. Won’t be out until 2013.
Interesting, thanks Bob. I’ll have to start a Norton waiting list…